RockAuto now offers Liland Global parts. Liland Global has been in the fuel industry for almost 35 years. They research, design and manufacture high quality, yet competitively priced fuel tanks, fuel filler necks, fuel tank straps, fuel sending units, oil pans and more.

Liland Global parts are often built better than the originals. For example, their stainless steel fuel tanks will not rust with today's bio-diesel or ethanol gas. Their fuel tank straps are high temperature EDP powder coated for long life against salt and road debris.

From a Fuel Tank for a 2002 Toyota Highlander, to an Oil Pan for a 1986 Pontiac Fiero, to a Fuel Tank Filler Neck for a 2012 Chevrolet Impala, to a Fuel Tank Sending Unit for a 1967 Ford Mustang, to a Skid Plate for a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, find the Liland Global parts you need for your specific car or truck in the “Engine,” “Fuel & Air," and "Body" categories of the RockAuto catalog.

RockAuto now offers more Rotor & Brake Pad Kit options than ever before! New pads and rotors are matched so you conveniently have what you need to successfully restore or upgrade your brakes. Our newly expanded selection includes brake kits from top rated manufacturers including Beck/Arnley, Centric, DuraGo and Power Stop. Of course, all brake kits include RockAuto’s reliably low prices too!

The RockAuto catalog provides quality/design levels ranging from Economy to Daily Driver to Heavy Duty to Premium to Performance. With such a wide selection of options, you are bound to find a brake kit to match your driving style, handle your towing needs and/or complement your vehicle's appearance.

Find Rotor & Brake Pad Kits for your specific vehicles in the "Brake & Wheel Hub" category of the RockAuto catalog.

ClubFrontier.org is a friendly website created just for Nissan Frontier enthusiasts. You will find plenty of information and discussions on all variants of this popular compact pickup. There are even sections covering the Nissan Navara and Equator trucks.

Join today. Registration is FREE, fast and simple!

If you are the administrator or member of a forum and you would like to see your website featured in an upcoming newsletter and receive a discount code to share with your members, contact marketing@rockauto.com.

I had been a professional aircraft mechanic for about 15 years, but had limited electrical troubleshooting experience. On aircraft, that is typically handled by avionics or electrical "specialists." I was more of a hydraulic and engine specialist. If potential electrical problems were discovered, they would be handed over to the appropriate personnel for repair. I also worked on my own vehicles since I was old enough to drive and had done many modifications and a fair bit of wiring installation in the process. I had also recently added a professional quality multi-meter to my tool collection, but rarely had an opportunity to use it. Then, the opportunity arrived.

My Isuzu Rodeo had four power windows that stopped working...but the fuses all looked good. With confidence and enthusiasm and the proper tool for the job, I laid out my plan of attack. I would start at the power window switch on the driver's door panel. I removed the switch and checked for power...nothing. No power was at any of the four window switches. My next step was to remove the door panel and inspect the wiring inside of the door and through the rubber grommet leading to the main harness under the interior kick panel. I worked my way through the mystery of hidden door panel fasteners. I disconnected handle and door lock cables and other connectors for lighting. The panel was finally removed and all the electrical switches were hanging openly from the door harness.

It was at this point I noticed something out of the corner of my eye. What was this? Another switch that I had overlooked? Hmmm...seems to be a power window lockout switch which I did not recall ever using. And of course it was pressed in to the lockout position and the cause of the non-operating power windows. An old lesson was brought to fresh memory. Check all the simple things first!

Chris in Georgia

Tell us about your most infamous auto repair blunder or unconventional fix. Use your woe to help others avoid similar mistakes or share off-the-wall solutions that worked (at least for a while!). Please email your story to flamur@rockauto.com. Include your mailing address and if you would like a RockAuto T-Shirt (please let us know your shirt size) or Hat if we publish your story. See the T-Shirts and Hats under Tools & Universal Parts in the catalog. The story will be credited using only your first name and your vague geographic location (state, province, country, continent, etc.) so you can remain semi-anonymous!

An owner of a late '60s Mustang or another Ford from that era will often describe his/her vehicle's engine as a "351 Windsor" or "351 Cleveland." Why do Ford enthusiasts feel the need to include the city where the engine was manufactured?

A. Less than 6,000 351s were manufactured in Cleveland while nearly 800,000 351s were assembled in Windsor. The rarity of 351 engines with serial numbers beginning with a "C" has made those Cleveland" engines more valuable to collectors.

B. Only four barrel carburetors/intake manifolds were installed on 351s built in Windsor until 1979. Cleveland-built 351s all got two barrel carbs until 1973. The city name quickly tells Ford enthusiasts if a vehicle likely came equipped with the performance and appearance upgrades typically bundled with the four barrel carb option.

C. Ford chose to build quite different engines with the same cubic inch displacement. Owners must specify "Windsor" or "Cleveland" because the two engine designs use different spark plugs, pistons, oil pans and numerous other big and small parts.

Answer below

Since the spring thaw, I have been trying to figure out why the engine (351 Windsor) in my '71 Ford LTD was hesitating when I pressed the gas pedal. The accelerator pump diaphragm on the carburetor is supposed to squirt in a little extra fuel when the gas pedal is first depressed. Fuel was slowly dripping out of the accelerator pump weep hole. I removed the accelerator pump diaphragm and discovered it was covered in fine cracks like an old bicycle tire tube. A new accelerator pump stopped the fuel leak but did not help with the hesitation. (Find Accelerator Pumps under "Fuel & Air" in "Tools & Universal Parts" and for specific vehicles in the RockAuto.com catalog.)

I got the Ford's Autolite 2100 carburetor's complex heat tube choke system working flawlessly with a new carburetor choke thermostat spring and gasket. I refreshed the ignition system with new spark plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap and rotor. The engine started cold and idled better after my tuning/tinkering, but it still hesitated when I pressed the gas pedal.

The hesitation worsened. The engine became reluctant to pull the car up hills. I began to suspect the carburetor was not getting enough gas. I replaced the fuel filter. I cut open the old fuel filter and did not find any significant dirt accumulation inside its strainer. I replaced the rubber fuel line/hose between the gas tank and the fuel pump. The hose was brittle and needing replacing, but it was not clogged. Fuel readily poured out of the gas tank's fuel line.

All that was left was the mechanical fuel pump. Ever since I was a teenager, I have automatically replaced mechanical fuel pumps, along with the belts, hoses, ignition parts, filters, etc. whenever I buy old cars. These maintenance parts are typically inexpensive and why not start fresh and prevent problems.

When I bought this car in San Diego a few years ago, I believed the previous owner's recollection that all the maintenance parts were relatively new. The engine compartment was very clean, the fluids had clearly been recently changed, and I was able to drive the long trip home north without any problems other than noticing the shock absorbers were worn out. Those tired shocks should have been a clue that time flies and recollecting when parts were replaced is hard for everybody. I frequently use my RockAuto account to remind myself when I last replaced parts on my old cars. (Accounts are available to all customers in the upper right corner of RockAuto.com.)

Nothing was clearly broken inside the pump

Anyway, the fuel pump was still relatively shiny and it was fitted with non-OE hose clamps, but I really had no way of knowing if it was last replaced in 2012 or 1982. It took about 15 minutes to bolt on a new fuel pump. The engine no longer hesitates and the old Ford once again floats up hills effortlessly!

I was happy to have finally solved the problem and eagerly took the old fuel pump into the "lab" section of my garage where I keep the vice and hacksaw. I was disappointed to find nothing that was clearly broken inside the pump. There were no debris. The mechanical arm, spring, rubber diaphragm, rubber check valves and check valve springs all appeared intact.

The fuel pump had likely worn out like a good hiking boot. I do not realize how worn out old boots are until I put on a fresh new pair. This mechanical fuel pump generates less than 8 psi (55 kPa) of pressure when it is new. All those rubber pieces and springs likely stretched/compressed/stiffened over time until the pump's meager output pressure dropped so low it could not keep enough fuel in the carburetor's bowl even after engine RPM increased and the pump's arm moved faster.

I took a convoluted repair path to replace the fuel pump, but now I know the maintenance parts I should have automatically replaced when I bought the car have indeed been replaced. I need to install some informative gauges too. Of course the '71 Ford did not come from the factory with a fuel pressure gauge. In fact, all it has is a fuel level gauge and speedometer! (Find gauges here)

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

To read more of Tom's articles, click this link and choose from story titles on the Newsletter Archives page.

My 1974 Datsun 260Z was a wreck (stored outside, sun beaten and neglected for 13 years) when I purchased it. But I proceeded to do a full restoration with my son and wife alongside. I used RockAuto to provide any and all parts that I needed. From suspension bushings to engine parts for the LS1 engine swap. I have also used RockAuto for many parts on other projects. For normal maintenance to major repairs, RockAuto always comes through with fast and accurate shipping.

Gerald in Arizona

Share Your Hard Work
Do you purchase parts from RockAuto? If so, RockAuto would like to give you the opportunity to have your car or truck possibly featured in one (or occasionally more) of our publications such as the monthly newsletter, collector magnets or RockAuto social media. New, old, import, domestic, daily driver, trailer queen, classic, antique, we want to see them all! Please email flamur@RockAuto.com with your vehicle's history, interesting details, your favorite images (tips for taking pictures of your car) and what parts from RockAuto you have used.

An owner of a late '60s Mustang or another Ford from that era will often describe his/her vehicle's engine as a "351 Windsor" or "351 Cleveland." Why do Ford enthusiasts feel the need to include the city where the engine was manufactured?

A. Less than 6,000 351s were manufactured in Cleveland while nearly 800,000 351s were assembled in Windsor. The rarity of 351 engines with serial numbers beginning with a "C" has made those Cleveland" engines more valuable to collectors.

B. Only four barrel carburetors/intake manifolds were installed on 351s built in Windsor until 1979. Cleveland-built 351s all got two barrel carbs until 1973. The city name quickly tells Ford enthusiasts if a vehicle likely came equipped with the performance and appearance upgrades typically bundled with the four barrel carb option.

Answer: C. Ford chose to build quite different engines with the same cubic inch displacement. Owners must specify "Windsor" or "Cleveland" because the two engine designs use different spark plugs, pistons, oil pans and numerous other big and small parts.

Back up to trivia question